天然产物研究与开发 ›› 2022, Vol. 34 ›› Issue (增刊2): 172-177.

• 综述 • 上一篇    

化妆品中功效生物碱提取纯化及功效评价的研究进展

邱倩倩1，王海燕2*，孙建博1*，路   勇2   

  1. 1中国药科大学，南京 210009；2中国食品药品检定研究院 国家药品监督管理局化妆品研究与评价重点实验室，北京 100010
  • 出版日期:2022-12-07 发布日期:2022-12-07
  • 基金资助:
    十四五基地与人才专项（2022FY101202）

Research progress on extraction and purification of active alkaloids in cosmetic products and evaluation of their efficacy

QIU Qian-qian1,WANG Hai-yan2*,SUN Jian-bo1*,LU Yong2   

  1. 1China Pharmaceutical University,Nanjing 210009,China;2NMPA Key Laboratory for Researching and Evaluation of Cosmetics,National Institutes for Food and Drug Control,Beijing 100010,China.
  • Online:2022-12-07 Published:2022-12-07

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摘要： 生物碱是存在于自然界（主要为植物）的一类重要的天然产物。其中甜菜碱、茶碱、辣椒碱等一些生物碱常常被添加进化妆品中以达到抗氧化、保湿、减少皮肤刺激等功效。由于化妆品具有一定的基体干扰效应，对生物碱进行最大程度地提取纯化是使其发挥功效的关键步骤。本文综述了目前对于化妆品原料目录里的功效生物碱提取纯化的不同方法以及总结了对其抗氧化功效的评价方法及应用。以期为从化妆品中提取纯化功效生物碱提供参考，进一步推动功效生物碱在化妆品中的应用。

关键词: 化妆品, 生物碱, 提取, 纯化, 功效评价

Abstract:

Alkaloids are an important class of natural products found mainly in plants.In pursuit of the multiple efficacy like antioxidant,moisturizing,and skin irritation reduction,some biologically active alkaloids,such as betaine,theophylline and capsaicin,are often added to cosmetics.Since cosmetics have certain matrix-disrupting effects,the extraction and purification of alkaloids is the key step to maximize their efficacy.This paper reviews the different methods of alkaloids extraction and purification currently applied in the catalogue of cosmetic raw materials,and summarizes the methods for evaluating their antioxidant efficacy.It provides a reference for the extraction and purification of active alkaloids in cosmetics and can further promote the application of active alkaloids in cosmetics.

Key words: cosmetics, alkaloids, extraction, purification, efficacy evaluation

中图分类号:  TQ658 Q946

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